Swiss passports 2024
Last spring, I had the great idea of planning a tour that would give my wife quite mixed feelings!
The trip was to take us to the Swiss canton of Graubünden, from where we wanted to conquer the legendary Alpine passes of central Switzerland: the Furka Pass, which links Uri and Valais, the St. Gotthard Pass in Ticino and, of course, the classics San Bernardino, Flüela and Albula in the canton of Graubünden – in other words, a veritable firework display of passes!
The special thing about this tour? My wife hadn’t been a passenger on a motorcycle for over 15 years and had never ridden a longer route – let alone in the mountains on mountain passes! The day of departure was approaching and the excitement was growing immeasurably for both of us. What would the weather be like in the mountains? Would it be cold? Would it rain? And what should we take with us? How much space was there in the cases of the GS 1250? And what about snacks? Questions upon questions!
I could already hear my wife’s thoughts: “I hope this isn’t an adventure we’ll regret!” But hey, where’s the fun in not traveling into the unknown?
The trip began early in the morning on August 26 – and in weather that we hadn’t ordered. With a good dose of confidence and lots of anticipation in our luggage (and a GS 1250 that was so packed that you could almost have thought we were going on a hike – typical women!), we set off towards Lake Constance. The route took us through the Swabian province, past Biberach, and finally to Friedrichshafen. The ferry was already waiting for us there, as if it were an old friend who wanted to take us across Lake Constance.
After an entertaining 45-minute drive across Lake Constance – during which we got used to the idea of the adventures ahead – we finally set foot on Swiss soil. Now the vacation could really begin! So: start the engine, mount up and head roughly south! The weather began to improve and we spotted the first rays of sunshine in the sky. Who would have thought it? The weather gods seemed to be well-disposed towards us – perhaps he had sensed our anticipation!
Our route took us through picturesque towns and villages that were so idyllic that you could have been forgiven for thinking they had come straight out of a model train set. The first large, snow-covered peaks loomed majestically on the horizon and we noticed that we were climbing faster and faster – the GS was purring like a kitten! After a winding and entertaining ride, we finally reached the Klausen Pass at 1952 m above sea level and I can tell you: the view was breathtaking.
From the top of the pass, it was only a stone’s throw to Altdorf and from there only a short distance to Andermatt. The old town of Andermatt is truly magical! Like something out of a fairy tale. We took another sharp left and headed towards the Oberalp Pass.
But at the top of the pass, we experienced something I hadn’t seen in over 30 years on the road: the thickest fog you can imagine! Visibility of no more than 10 meters – although I’m convinced it wasn’t fog, but a cloud that had decided to slow us down. Anyway, we rode at walking pace, overtook a few brave cyclists (who probably wondered why they were doing this to themselves) and arrived at our hotel in Sedrun 60 minutes late.
The welcome was so warm and friendly that we almost thought we had landed in a Swiss chocolate advertisement. We moved into our cozy room, and the view from the balcony was gigantic! All the clouds seemed to have gathered on the Oberalp Pass, while the weather in the valley was glorious – real mountain weather! Thanks to the short journey of just 250 km, we still had enough time and energy to explore the village and the landscape on foot.
After a wonderfully quiet and restful night – I mean, I even dreamt of chocolate and cheese – our second day began with a breakfast that would have made even the most discerning gourmets envious. Today, the first classics of Central Switzerland were on the agenda, and we were ready to conquer the Swiss Alps!
From our base hotel, we first rode over the Oberalp Pass, then on to the Furka Pass and finally to the Nufenen Pass, before taking the Via Tremola up to the St. Gotthard Pass. A relaxed 150 km awaited us that day – that almost sounds like a walk in the park, doesn’t it?
After a few minutes, we reached the ascent to the legendary Furka Road, where James Bond, alias Sean Connery, once had a breakneck chase. An absolute must-have for the bucket list of all James Bond fans! With a bit of luck, you can even stop at the memorial sign – and what can I tell you? I was able to add another tick to my bucket list! This road is part of the legendary Grand Tour of Switzerland, and what’s more, it could hardly be higher: at 2429m above sea level, the Furka Pass is the highest Alpine pass on the Grand Tour. The European watershed between the Mediterranean and the North Sea also runs here – so if you’re ever asked about it…
At the top of the pass, a photo through the famous photo spot was of course a must, followed by a well-deserved coffee break at the legendary Hotel Belvedere while we admired the magnificent landscape around the Rhone Glacier. Unlike many other tours, we did not continue to the Grimsel Pass, but to the Nufenen Pass, the highest of the Swiss road passes at 2478m. From there our route led us to Airolo in Ticino where we enjoyed our lunch break with Italian flair – pizza and pasta, here we come!
Here we had the opportunity to prepare for the Via Tremola. The Tremola road is the longest road construction monument in Switzerland and winds like a bright ribbon from Airolo up to the Gotthard Pass. This world-famous serpentine road was created with the construction of the Gotthard Pass road and, in its most spectacular section, overcomes 300 meters of altitude in 24 hairpin bends over a length of just four kilometers!
Arriving at the top of the pass, we were met by the usual hustle and bustle – somehow like a folk festival – people with beaming faces admiring the landscape or, as we experienced, riding along the Via Tremola in turn-of-the-century costumes in a stagecoach. The last stretch of the day awaited us and we set off in the direction of Göschenen back to our cozy hotel, where we reviewed the day over a delicious dinner. And I can tell you: if that wasn’t a perfect day, then I don’t know what was!
Our third day in central Switzerland started promisingly with bright sunshine and a breakfast that would have fed even a bear! It was time to change hotels, so we packed all our belongings into the suitcases of the GS – and I swear we had packed way too many clothes. But hey, you never know when you’ll need a smart outfit for a mountain peak!
With glorious weather behind us, we were really looking forward to exploring the Swiss Alps further. Only two passes awaited us on today’s route to our next hotel: the Lukmanier Pass at 1920m and the San Bernardino Pass at 2066m. Although we were now in the Italian-speaking area – and the Italian flair is simply stunning – we were still a long way from reaching our stage destination in the Hinterrheintal. First we still had to conquer the San Bernardino!
While the highway disappears into the tunnel as far as the village of San Bernardino, the pass road led us into a high, mystical moorland landscape with reflective water eyes and glacier polishes. And the beautiful mountain lake Lago Moesola? A real postcard motif! Here we took a short explorer’s break and immortalized ourselves with another cairn – what kind of adventure in the mountains would it be without stacking a few stones?
We finally reached our hotel in Splügen in the early afternoon. But what awaited us there was a nasty surprise! The hotel turned out to be a disaster – absolutely unsuitable for motorcyclists. After this shock, we decided to treat ourselves to some time out and went to the thermal baths in Andeer in the afternoon. In the warm water and completely relaxed, we decided to leave the sinfully expensive but unsuitable hotel as quickly as possible and find somewhere else to stay for the next two nights.
No sooner said than done! On the way back, we passed the Roffla Gorge, where a small, traditional inn was waiting for us. And you know what? We were able to stay there from the next night! Sometimes life is like a good mountain trip: there are ups and downs, but in the end you always find a nice place to rest!
The third night didn’t fly by and morning came without a visit from a house ghost. So we set off to leave the old Säumerhaus and headed for the Roffla Gorge. After a warm welcome, we moved into our room, which smelled more like “coziness” than “luxury” – but hey, we’re bikers and only here to sleep, right?
Then it was off to the fourth and longest stage – a whopping 300 kilometers! On the program were the Flüela, Albula, Julier, Maloja and Splügen passes. A real “pass firework”! We started our GS and roared towards Davos, where the traffic was so smooth that we almost felt like we were in a commercial. In Davos, we treated ourselves to a stroll through the town – after all, you have to stretch your legs sometimes.
The pass road towards Zernez was our next destination, and soon we were at the beautiful Albula Pass at 2315 m above sea level. Our planned lunch break in Bergün was just a stone’s throw away. We stopped off at the Hotel Weiss Kreuz, where they serve the best sausage and cheese salad. After this refreshment, we set off for the Julier Pass at 2284m above sea level.
Back in the valley, we had the idea of making a detour to Sankt Moritz. There we briefly marveled at the rich and beautiful – and we wondered whether we should take a closer look at the town on a future occasion. Let’s see… you never know!
But then suddenly came the surprise: traffic! And not in short supply! The Maloja Pass, which had already served as an important feeder road in Roman times, became a test of patience for us at a snail’s pace. It was already late afternoon and I was beginning to seriously worry whether we would make it over the last pass, the Splügen Pass, in daylight.
The Splügen Pass is a real challenge with 75 hairpin bends. But it wasn’t so bad: from the ascent to the pass, the traffic disappeared and the landscape was simply breathtaking. Just a few small houses and a reservoir – no hustle and bustle, just us and nature.
The Swiss side of the pass took our breath away – in the truest sense of the word! Steep slopes and vertical rock faces framed the road in the twilight. We finally reached our little inn at just under 21:00. Two “Chübel” (0.5 l beer) were already waiting for us there, and we enjoyed a delicious dinner after this long and wonderful day. Cheers to the adventures to come!
On the fifth day, we had actually planned to cycle around Lake Maggiore. But somehow the motivation to tackle another long stretch had disappeared like an ice cream in the sun. The day before, we had talked to three other motorcyclists who raved about Juf and the Via Mala gorge. They told us that the Romans had already used the Bernardino Pass – and the main problem back then was not the pass itself, but the arduous route through the 300-metre-deep Rhine gorge between Thusis and Zillis, which not coincidentally bears the name Via Mala (“bad road”).
As our inn was very close by, we decided to take the Via Mala gorge. At first we had mixed feelings as to whether it really made sense to shorten the day like this. But then – wow! The Via Mala is simply spectacular! Just imagining how people and animals transported goods through this gorge is enough to make you shiver. And of course, the obligatory photo at the Grand Tour photo spot is a must – after all, you have to feed your Instagram feed!
We took it easy for the rest of the day and treated ourselves to a relaxing lunch break. We then set off for today’s highlight: Juf, the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe! The drive from the Roffla Gorge to Juf was very pleasant. We cruised through the mountain landscape, up to Cresta and then on to the idyllic and dreamy village of Juf at 2100 m above sea level.
The little village is delightful! Around 30 people live here, there is a small inn, a few tourists and hikers – and of course the Postbus, which actually runs to Juf eight times a day. Who needs a car when you have a Postbus? We enjoyed the peace and quiet and the scenery with a good cup of coffee and a walk through the village. Even marmots popped by – my wife’s heart sank!
The return trip was just as relaxed as the outward journey, and we returned to our guesthouse in the late afternoon. Unfortunately, it was now time for our last night in Switzerland.
The sixth day began as usual with a tasty and hearty breakfast. We looked back wistfully on our experiences before saddling up the GS and heading back towards Lenzer Heide.
Once again, we were able to admire the majestic Swiss Alps in all their glory before Lake Constance near Lindau gave us a warm welcome home. This trip was an unforgettable experience that not only brought us closer to the beauty of the Swiss Alps, but also put the joy of traveling and exploring together back into our hearts.
And to all the female pillion riders out there: Dare! You won’t regret it – adventure is calling! 🏍️✨
